Category:Aid Climbing

From CACWiki

Don't have much personal experience; check out S.C.A.G., the Southern Cal Aid Guide. The S.C.A.G. site suggests the concrete bridge in Eaton Canyon. I checked this out, and while access to the canyon is allowed, it appears the bridge is officially off-limits. Anything within 20' of the ground has many layers of paint on it, covering up old graffiti. It's not a pleasant place to climb due to all the trash and old spray paint bottles, and climbing concrete isn't great fun. There are some A3 and harder lines on thin seams. For less-experienced aid climbers, there's a space between the two columns that's about 1 cm wide with two bolts at the top (that don't have rap rings). Worth visiting once, at most. An OK choice if you want to practice placing pitons.

The SCAG guide mentions the Millard Falls area (note: as of the 2009 fires, this may be off-limits). It's mainly aid, but at least one line can be freed. More info from this Supertopo thread (talks about the campground host who claims it's illegal to climb there, while it's really not illegal), and this MountainProject.com page.

Jordan Ramey posted the info on Mountain Project, and elaborates a bit on his email to the list:

I posted that mountainproject stuff about Millard Canyon. Basically the rock around the falls is good because of the water. The left most bolt line is an aid line with almost all good bolts. It would be a pretty difficult free climb I think (harder than 5.12?). The middle line has good bolts and IS a free line, although getting off the ground, out the roof is VERY difficult. The rest of the route is probably around 5.10. The other "bolted" lines there are time bomb / death bolts that are very apparently terrible. As you move away from the falls the rock gets cruddy and vegetated. There are a couple OK bouldering blocks on the hike in, one of which even has a quarter incher on top (right out of the parking area). from what I've heard, it's NOT OK to bolt new lines there. I've never been hassled there, but others have. It's legal to climb, just not bolt. I would not recommend it for the weekend. There are indeed lots (and I mean LOTS) of people there on the weekend. Also, BIG ROCKs do fall down the falls. I was solo aiding the Left Line one morning and a bunch of stuff came down.

One great local spot to start working the aid climbing ropes is The Pirate route in Suicide Rocks, by Tahquitz. The pitch goes free at some crazy 5.12, but if your tendons, just like mine, are not up to the task, you can aid it. It is a very thin crack, well suited for micro-stoppers and cam hooks. The beginning is spicy (C2) - remember, redundancy in protection is your friend here. The nearby Etude is also a thin crack that can be aided. Remember, if you practice aid climbing on popular free climbing routes, do NOT ever think about even considering using pitons, or else you'll never find a climbing partner again! The only acceptable practice is "clean" aid climbing (i.e. the "C" grades).

If you are willing to expand your concept of "local", Yosemite is the place to go. Just one visit to the Camp 4 will convince you that distance is no obstacle for myriads of climbers that come from all over the planet to this aid climbing gem. Where else in the planet can you climb a 3000' cliff in a t-shirt, after a 15min approach, and have beer and pizza in your descent day? Probably not in the Baffin island. Additionally, there is a gentleman in el Cap meadows taking quality pictures and keeping your dear ones informed of your daily progress.

See Also

• Tradgirl.com's aid climbing section has a good assortment of tips.
• Supertopo has a free article How to Big Wall Climb