|Name: Stoney Point|
|Distance from Caltech: 34 mi, 38 min|
|Strengths : Bouldering|
A sandstone area with mainly bouldering, but also some top-roping and even aid climbing. We have several guidebooks on Stoney Point in our Library. The main boulders (like Boulder 1, which has a perfect landing) are covered with people, so you don't need any guidebook as long as you are outgoing and talkative. There is a bit of graffiti as well as rock-colored paint covering up old graffiti; this is more of a problem on the less popular rocks.
In general, I recommend Stoney Point as a bouldering location. It is rather close, and there are lots of boulders, with many problems at a reasonable level of difficulty (i.e. V3 and under), as well as enough mid-range (V4-V5) and high range (V6-V10) problems to keep every kind of climber busy.
Because if its urban location and good rock, almost all good LA climbers have climbed here, and it was a training ground for the Stonemasters in the 70s. Some of the routes have old gradings, and some new, so there's a bit of inconsistency (e.g. on Boulder 1, the V4 Yabo Mantel is stiff, but the V5/V6 dyno just to its right is a super soft grade).
As ayola.com says, "Rock & Ice Magazine named our little classic V0 "Three Pigs" in it's "500 Routes To Go At - Ultimate Tick List" in issue #100. Among the other classics listed where Yosemite's "Midnight Lightning"(V8) and "Gunsmoke Traverse"(V3) in Joshua Tree."
Edit: I thought Midnight Lightning was V7 and Gunsmoke was V2?
Located inside the Stoney Point city park (closed from sunset to sunrise) in Chatsworth, at the corner of Topanga Canyon Blvd. and Ronald Reagan Freeway (118). Park on the main road; do not drive down the dirt road. From Pasadena: take the 210 West for about 18 miles, then take CA 118 West for another 12 miles until the Topanga Canyon Blvd. (CA 27) exit.
In October 2010, Climbing Magazine ran an 11 page feature article on Stoney Point, recounting some of its history and recommending some good routes.
Here are the last two pages in jpeg form (these cover only the recommended routes). Access to the full-size version is again restricted.
- sowr.com used to have a nice bouldering guide, as well as an area map. The website is associated with the "Urban Rock" climbing guide book; we have a 1997 edition in the Library. The book is written by Chris Owens of JPL. Now, it looks like sowr.com just has links to the book and to mountainproject (Chris Owens is an administrator for the mountain project stoney point site, so you can assume most of the info has been transferred).
- ayola.com/stoney has great info and pictures of some routes.
- mountain project's stoney point site has good info.
- google map of Stoney Point for driving directions (they estimate 38 min driving time from Pasadena, which is only accurate in very great traffic)