User:Jackalak

From CACWiki

Hi I'm Jack. I'm an aspiring "Alpine Psychopath". I like really long and hard trad routes with approaches to remote areas. My favourite places to climb are Yosemite, Toulumne, the Needles, the Whitney area, Tahquitz, Red Rocks, and Jtree. I used to sport climb and boulder a lot. I still go sometimes. I also recently learned to lead ice. My Mountain Project Profile: If you want to climb with me look at my ticks and my todo list and see if we have common goals/abilities.

Jack Ziegler's wisdom:

First Rule: You must climb to get better at climbing

• 1.1: You must climb overhangs to get better at overhangs
• 1.2: You must crack climb (outside only) to get better at crack climbing
• 1.3: You must slab climb (outside only) to get better slab climbing

Second Rule: Climbing in the climbing Gym will only make you better at face climbing

• 2.1: If you want to get stronger faster, boulder
• 2.2: If you want to learn climbing technique faster, boulder
• 2.3: If you want to make random climbing friends, boulder
• 2.4: If you want to learn to lead climb or get more endurance, lead climb
• 2.5: If you want finger strength, boulder

Third Rule: Flexibility and core strength (abs, lower back, obliques, hip flexers...) are much more important than overall upper body strength to weight ratio

• 3.1: If you are not flexible or have a weak core do yoga (I recommend buying an Ashtanga yoga video)
• 3.2: If you cannot do a pull up, go to the gym and lift some weights
• 3.3: If you can already do more than 5 pull ups, don't bother lifting weights, unless its a second hobby or you arm wrestle

Fourth Rule: If you train finger strength or only boulder before climbing multiple years in a row, you will injure yourself

• 4.1: Do not! use a hangboard unless you've been climbing like 3 or 4 years nonstop
• 4.2: Do not just boulder. Mix long lead climbing routes in.
• 4.3: Doing certain yoga poses when you are very warm stretches your finger tendons (upward and downward dog for example)

Fifth Rule: If you want to climb Alpine Trad Routes, you also need strong legs and lower back

• 5.1: Most routes in the Sierras are low angle, you will burn out your legs first
• 5.2: If you burn out your legs on the approach (Tahquitz for example) your climbing will suffer
• 5.3: Hiking up Mt. Baldy once a week with a heavy pack does wonders for your lower body strength and endurance

Sixth Rule: Generally, the more you climb, the better you get

• 6.1: Once a week is good for your first few months climbing
• 6.2: Twice a week is better for you first 3-6 months
• 6.3: Three times a week will help you improve rapidly your first year or two
• 6.4: Going on road trips climbing 3-5 days in a row when you are fit (climbing fitness not general fitness) helps you overcome mental and physical plateaus
• 6.5: You need rest days, especially if you are gym climbing as the intensity of the workout is usually much harder
• 6.6: You can climb 3 days in a row in the gym if you limit your bouldering and mainly lead and top rope
• 6.7: You can climb 6 hours non-stop in a gym (if you can not, you still need more endurance, you should lead and top rope more)